Kwaheri Kenya..

Goodbye, Kenia – Kwaheri Kenya..

Well, this is already the last story about my time in Kenya.

After the Safari I had one more week to spend time with the kids in Mukuru, before we actually went to Mombasa for the second time : ) This time we stayed for four whole days, and it was just as beautiful and relaxing as the first time. I don’t think i could ever get too much of the white beaches, the blue ocean and the perfect weather. Again, we travelled in a group of ten, which was really fun! Our accomodation were little cottages for 3-4 persons, which had a really nice bathroom, a small kitchen and even a living room each! Quite luxurios ; )

Some of the local people, we met during our last stay helped us get to a really cheap and amazing snorkelling trip and really tasty grilled fish! We had to order the fish one day in advance, then they went out in the morning to catch the fish and they called us to eat when they were ready. I don’t think I ever had fish that fresh and it was really cheap, too, only about 2€ each!

After my final short trip in Kenya I already had to start packing : ( I went to the school one last time to say goodbye and give some of the pictures we printed to the boys. Somehow saying goodbye was much harder for me than I expectet, everyone said something nice about what they will remember about me, it was almost to much to take..  There really is a big difference between saying goodbye, knowing that you will meet again or knowing that you most probably wont. Unfortunately, as much as I would like that, it will be quite impossible to stay in touch with the boys. It was very sad and I will really miss my host family and all those amazing people I met in school.

After that, everything happened really fast, one last goodbye at the family’s house and off to the airport. Just as it always is in Kenya I only got to the check in counter 5 minutes AFTER it was supposed to be closed, but thats no problem in Kenyan time, pole pole^^

When I had to transfer in Dubai, I met two friends travelling from Thailand, which was really cool! We had free breakfast together in the Emirates restaurant and we were on the same plane to Germany. What a great ending for an extraordinary trip : )

Now I’m back to university in Germany, but not for long. Only a few more months untill I am going abroad again and I can’t wait : )

Safari in Masai Mara

I finally went on the Safari I was supposed to do five weeks ago, but which I missed because of the cancelled flight.
We travelled to the Masai Mara Nationalpark, the most famous and touristy one in Kenya. It is located right at the border to Tansania and is called Serengeti as soon as you cross. Somewhere in the park we even saw the boundary stone, you can just walk over to Tansania ; )

The Safari was super super cool, we saw SO much, I don’t think I can ever list all the things without still forgetting to mention half of them. There were zebras, antilopes, gazelles, wilderbeests, lions, elephants, giraffes, buffalos, hippos, crocodiles, hyenas, vultures and many many more.
One really cool thing was, that we observed the lions mating and also a big male lion sleeping next to a dead, half-eaten wilderbeest and nothing could ever bother him enough to move. Then, at the Mara River we saw lots of huge hippos ; )

At the moment it is the time of the big migration and if you are lucky you are able to see large herds of wilderbeests crossing the Mara River at some particular spots. Unfortunately we missed it by a couple of hours, but there had been migration in the morning and a lot of dead wilderbeests, which didn’t make it, where floating in the river and being eaten by all kinds of other animals. The smell was quite bad, but it was really interesting to see. And I never knew, that crocodiles never eat fresh meat. They kill their prey and let it rot for a couple of days before they finally eat it. You can all try to imagine for yourselves what that smells like ; P

At the river we even got out of the cars, although it was prohibited in the whole park. But we had an armed ranger guiding us through the bush for a while and showing us crocodiles and the spot where the migration takes place. It was a little scary and everybody always wanted to be close to the gun : D but it was really fun!

We were acommodatet in a camp, which was far to comfortable to be actually called camping. We stayed in grass shacks with real beds inside and there even was a bathroom behind a curtain! With running water and electricity, which is not always the case here : D In the evenings we sat outside around a campfire and two Masai in traditional robes used long blowtubes to keep the fire going. A very relaxing atmosphere.

All in all a great weekend, if you don’t count the last day. Our drivers suddenly told us, there was a problem with the fees for the nationalpark and that they did not receive any money from our travel agency. So we could not leave before we paid 150$. They made up a lot of stories like “The car has been taken away because we didn’t pay” etc. However, when we didn’t believe them and drove there with another car, there the car was just standing in a parking lot and now it suddenly was a “misunderstanding”. They let us wait quite a while thinking that we would get scared and pay, but was not bothering us, we just pretended to not care, so they finally agreed to drive us back to Nairobi and there were no more problems, either -.-
I think with people who just got to Kenya, this trick would have worked and I am really starting to be fed up with all these lies and tricks. I don’t like having to distrust everyone I meet, but there are just a lot of people in Kenya who just see your money and how they can take it from you. That is definitely one disadvantage of travelling in Kenya as a white person.

Anyway, apart from this unfortunate incident the trip was really worth it and one of the best things i did in Kenya so far : )

Mombasa – South Coast – Diani Beach :)

Real holidays! Beach and sunshine and the ocean! Just perfect, relaxed days, no more breathing fumes, just taking a time out! I had all this in Diani Beach ca. 30 km south of Mombasa, there was no real city, just a couple of supermarkets, bars and a lot of beaches : )

The only cath: beachboys! This might sound positive for some of you, big mistake. Those people are the most annoying ones I ever met. If someone approaches you in Nairobi and you don’t feel like it, you just ignore them and everything is fine. It is NOT like that in Diani. If the beachboys approach you and you don’t answer, they follow you. If you tell them to please leave you alone, they will never stop talking to you. It’s unbelievable! I don’t understand how they can be like that and not feel stupid, talking to someone who ignores them all the way ; )

But you get used to it, and apart from that I had a great time! We went snorkeling, swimming, partying… And we also had a really cool apartment for the ten of us which was really fun. There, we were robbed by a funny thief: a monkey! He climbed in through the open window and stole our food, i was really surprised when I found one of them next to my bed! : D

Those three days at the beach were way too short for me, so Mombasa Volume 2 is planned already : )

Life in Nairobi

After returning from Kakamega I was really looking forward to working at the Rehabilitation Centre again. I just think it is nicer there and the boys really seem happy to see me and spend time with me. I could have changed and gone to a different school in a different slum, but I am glad I decided to stay as I already know everyone there so it is a relaxed atmosphere and at the other schools there are way too many interns anyway.

By now i know my way around Nairobi a little better, though I still get lost sometimes when the Matatu driver decides to drop me off at a different location than usual.
We also found the hiding place for all the white people: The Java Coffee House :D we went there to finally get some GOOD coffee again and the place was crowded with europeans who all miss their coffee, too ; )

Meanwhile, I also tried lots of different Kenyan foods and most of it was really tasty! They eat a lot of rice and beans here, often stew and cabbage and I really like the spices they use here. The only thing I don’t like that much is Ugali. It is made by just putting maize flour into boiling water and stirring and cooking untill becomes solid. It does not really have a taste, but the texture is quite strange and not really my thing ; ) Kenyans really eat it a lot and for some tribes, especially in the western region the table can be full of food, if there is no Ugali, there is no food ; ) While in Kakamega, we had Ugali with cabbage for lunch everyday!
In my host family the cooking is very nice. Last week they had some visitors and prepared a big family dinner with lots of different dishes, which all were so delicious, there were almost too many tastes for just one mouth! Great experience, thats one of the reasons why I like living in a hostfamily!

We also went to the Masai Market to buy some souvenirs a couple of times. Thats quite an experience! Everyone tries to talk to you and get you to buy something from their stand, while asking for extremely high prices. I was never really good at bargaining, but here I am becoming a professional! It is fun and I often manage to cut the prices by half. And just telling them that I don’t have more money and leave is the best way, quite often they come running after me and sell it for “my” price : )

However, I still don’t think that I am really accustomed to life here. And I am not sure whether that would happen, even if I stayed two more months. I don’t think I can ever get used to the traffic here, it is just insane! And it is quite exhausting to be careful all the time, but now I am because a lot of things were stolen from the other interns already. Luckily, nothing was stolen from me yet : )

First pictures from Africa :)

This is only interesting for those of you who are not on facebook anyway. I created an album there and hope you can see the pictures with this link: Impressions of Kenya

Kakamega, Kisumu & Lake Victoria

Finally back to civilisation! We got back to Nairobi yesterday after a 10-day-trip to the west of Kenya. That was a really different and exciting experience! What was very striking: It rains. A lot and quite often. All those stories in the news about the drought and famine in Kenya seem to be really far off when you are in western Kenya. During my ten days it rained at least once every day, usually at night, short and strong. Everything is really green, there are a lot of trees and the people have a more food than they can eat. The contrast to the starving north of the country could hardly be starker. All those organisations try desperately to import enough food to supply the people in the north, although there is so much food in the southwest that a lot of it is spoiled because they cannot sell it. Theoretically the government “just” has to take the spare food from the west and transport it to the north. Unfortunately, that would be difficult to organize and does not happen…

We stayed in Nambacha, a really small village in the district of Kakamega two hours north of Kisumu. There I finally had the real culture shock! It was really hard to see how people live there, they really have almost nothing, only the really basic necessities. Cows and goats are running around freely everywhere and power goes off about 10 times a day if there was power at all. That was not the case in all the schools and “buildings”. That was real rural life!
First we visited all the different schools we were supposed to work for during the project. We went there by motocycle, which was really fun but also a little scary as the roads are very bad and we had no helmets or any protective clothing. And in Germany the streets could easily pass as extreme Motorcross-rallye-track, thats how bad they were ; ) In addition, the drivers were a little crazy sometimes, they liked to race and we were three people on each bike. Great experience and a lot of fun, if you dont think about the dangers ; )

At the weekend we went to Kisumu to buy some supplies. Kisumu is one of the biggest cities in Kenya and is located right at Lake Victoria. The lake is really huge, you would think you are looking at an ocean if you didn’t know. There we went on a little tour in a boat and saw some wild hippos, quite impressive. We also had some very tasty fish there and saw tons of white people! You can really tell that this is a rather touristy place, I have never seen so many white people in one place in Kenya before. ; )

Working in the schools didn’t quite go as expected. As we were the first volunteers ever to visit that area, the schools did not actually expect us to show up, so as a consequence, they had nothing to do for us when we got there. After a while the situation improved and we started to give some computerlessons and teach the students and the teachers the basics. A lot of the teachers never touched a computer in their life, so we had to start with things like “Press this button to turn the computer on” etc. The students were rather quick with that, but the teachers really struggled. However, they were very interested and we showed them how they can create documents and work sheets and print them. I think this was quite a big step for them, and if just a few of them use a computer in the future we actually had a positive impact there, and that feels very good : )

The work in the rural area was a huge challange, as it was a boys highschool, 99% of the teachers were male and some of the students were even older than us. So you can imagine, that when two white girls, the first white people ever, show up and tell them they want to teach computer lessons, they did not take that seriously at all! But by the end of our stay there, they had realised, that they can really use our help and wanted us to stay longer. Anyway, we were quite glad to go back to Nairobi, as the boys in the school never really talked to us, they just stared at us like we were some kind of attraction in a zoo or something, which didnt feel very comfortable.

The way to school and back was quite interesting, too. Every single person we met approached us, greeted us and stared at us. Some of the kids even followed us home every day just to watch us : D They just had never seen a white person before in their life and after only a few days everyone in the village knew what we do, where we live etc. And we had to say “Im fine” about 100 times a day : )

We definitely got an impression about the living conditions of the majority of Kenyas inhabitants. That was really interesting and memorable, but I am still happy to be back in Nairobi. In comparison to the rural Kenya, we do live in luxury here!

Now I only wrote about a few of the impressions. The whole culture shock in that region was so strong, I don’t think I have words to describe it. The first night, we all just sat there, nobody talked, we just needed time to come to terms with the new situation. Only after about two days or so I slowly got used to the circumstances there. That really was an extraordinary experience and I am happy that I went there!

Mukuru Rehabilitation Centre

During the first 10 days I work in the Rehabilitation Centre in South B next to the Mukuru Slum. The centre is for streetboys, who come there to be reintegrated into life away from the strees. The boys stay there for a year and during that time they are educated in basics of social behaviour and manners and also in English, Kiswahili and Maths. They are divided in different classes, depending on which year they were in when they last visited school before living on the street. Some of the boys have never seen the inside of a school at the age of 15! With them it is very different to communicate, as they do not really understand English and only speak in their mothertongue. The boys taught me a few kiswahili phrases, but of course it is not nearly enough for a conversation. Those who are already in fourth or higher grade are easier to talk to, and they understand me, too.

Teaching them is not that easy, as they teach years 1-4 and 5-8 together in two big class rooms due to lack of space and teachers. This is especially problematic for the very young kids, as the difference between boys from year 1 and year 4 are rather high. I mainly assisted during the English classes, which was challenging but also rewarding as the boys really seem to want to learn something and are very interested. They try very hard to be good enough in school, so that they do not have to live on the street again. Some even take books and read during their freetime. 10-year-old boys, imagine that ; )

Last week was the last week before the summer break, so they had exams every day. The school is equipped very poorly and we spend almost an hour every day to find a small piece of a pencil for everyone and they had to share one sharpener and one rubber between 30 boys…

In their freetime there is not much they can do, except playing soccer. Card games are banned, because some of the boys used them to play for money. So we showed them some simple games and it is amazing how little it takes to make them smile! One time, I took my camera and recorded them, and they jumped around, did some acrobatics and sung. When I showed them the recordings, they were laughing so hard, I had to show it again and again during the following days! ; )

Tomorrow all the teachers and boys are going on a trip to Mombasa for a week and there will be no work for me. So I decided to join a group of volunteers which is going to Kisumu for a short project. All I know is, that we are supposed to teach computer basics to highschool students. I am very curious what that will be like!

Nairobi – First impressions

I am going to start with the city itself first. Nairobi is CHAOS! That word describes it best. The traffic is insane (anyone thinking they know bad drivers, you’re wrong!), the city is extremely crowded every day of the week and there are millions of little stands and shops everywhere, whether you are in the city center or not. There are always a lot of people in the streets, but quite rarely white people, so I get a lot of attention. Every two minutes somebody approaches me, sometimes even touches me and call me “Mzungu”, which means stranger or white person. I haven’t really gotten used to that yet. They call me that really loudly, if anyone would do that with black people in Germany that would be considered racist. Here it is kind of normal that white people are treated differently and have to pay more, for example in the National Museum 800 Shillings instead of 100 like the locals.

Though most of the people are very friendly, I still feel a little paranoid, walking around the streets on my own. It is just too easy to see, that I am a stranger and don’t know the city, so: easy victim for theft. Some of the other interns have been robbed on the street already, so I am extra cautious.

Before I got here, I imagined the city to be a rather western big city, since it is the capital. That was quite wrong ; ) The streets are extremely bad, construction sites everywhere and a lot of trash on the streets. The air consits of 80% exhaust fumes (at least thats what it feels like) and everything looks rather old and dirty. I don’t think I ever inhaled so many fumes in my life! And the airport was not like I expected an international airport to be, either. No signs at all and I had a hard time finding out, that I will only get my luggage AFTER I get the visa, a sign would have been quite helpful ; )

A little highlight every day are the Matatu rides. Matatus are small buses, in which they squeeze about 15 people and I use them every day to get to work. Head injuries are inclusive, as the drivers seem to think the streets of Nairobi are a race track. They drive around everything and take every possible space to squeeze through and be faster than the others. Also they often have really loud music, after a ride in the so-called partymatatu in morning, you are definitely not sleepy anymore : D An adventure every day. There are no fixed routes, they just drive wherever they see a free space and drop you off wherever they want, even if thats sometimes not were you want to go : D But by now I know the main points of the city, so that I am not totally lost in those cases.

My host family is really nice and in Kenyan measurements rather upperclass. They have a housemaid, two bathrooms and to get to the house you have to pass two security gates with guards. Still, there is not always electricity, sometimes it goes off and doesn’t come back for hours. And thats in the capital! I am curious what it will be like as soon as I get to rural areas ; )

Thats it for now, I will write something about my work next time!
Many greeting from Nairobi!

Hotelhopping & Dubai at Night

That was quite a strange start into my Africatrip : D It took me a little longer than planned to get to Nairobi.

Wednesday night, all the passengers sat in the plane and everything was on time, when they suddenly announced a technical problem and cancelled the flight. So we all had to get our luggage back and stay in the Hilton in Düsseldorf at Emirates expenses. Not bad! In the plane I had met a funny belgian girl and we enjoyed the food and the nice room in the Hilton and had fun : ) The next day, our new flight was delayed by two hours, so that we missed our connecting flights in Dubai and had to spend another night in a hotel, cool!

I was incredibly lucky, because the belgian girl had an uncle in Dubai who we called in the middle of the night. He picked us up spontaneously and showed us around the city untill three in the morning. Everything is so huge there and just way too luxurious. Tough it was the middle of the night, everything was very busy and hot. 37°, I really dont want to know how hot it would feel during the day : D

After the second awesome breakfast buffet in a hotel, I had to say goodbye to my belgian friend and continue on to Nairobi on my own, where I finally arrived one day late. Unfortunately I missed the Safari, but Ted, my host, told me that there will be a trip like that soon, so I will definitely get there some time.

Thats it for now, the connection is very slow, so dont expect too many pictures this time ;)

Greetings from Africa!!

I’m going to Africa!!

The next trip is on!! Tomorrow I’m getting into a plane to Nairobi, Kenya, where I will spend the next two months! I can’t even describe how excited I am right now!! : D

I am going to do a Development Traineeship, volunteerwork, with Aiesec and I will work in different projects and hopefully see a lot of the country!

I will arrive thursday night and friday morning I am already leaving for a 3-day-Safari in Masai Mara, the most popular Nationalpark there I’m VERY excited : )